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There are two things intruders don't like - loud noise and bright light. The former makes it difficult for them to hear approaching people, and makes a compelling case for the fitting of internal sirens (sound bombs) in alarm systems. This however is a topic for another day. The latter means they can be easily seen and is possibly the most effective deterrent. Security lighting can be used in conjunction with CCTV to give better pictures.

Security lighting can be used inside and out, and everything said here applies to either. Remember though, that outside lights must be rated for outdoor use, although there is nothing to stop you using them indoors as well. Many premises leave lights on all night. If you do this make sure that low energy lighting, such as fluorescent or sodium lighting is used, otherwise there will be large electricity consumption.

PIR Switched Lighting

A PIR or passive infra red detector, switches on when body heat movement is detected. Thus it will detect humans, but also animals such as cats upwards. The most popular form of security lighting has a built in PIR, which switches on the light if some-one approaches after dark.

PIRs can commonly be adjusted for 3 things - the light level at which they start working, the time for which they remain on (typically 20 seconds to 10 minutes) and sometimes the sensitivity or range over which they work (typically 4 to 12 metres).

They are usually physically adjustable, so that they can be pointed more downwards, to reduce the range, and sideways to give cover over particular areas. They are more sensitive when the person approaches across their detection area, than straight towards them.

When choosing a location, they should be at least 2.5m above ground, so they are not easily tampered with, well away from any heat source, such as a central heating exhaust and their detection area should not include a road at the end of the property. Many PIRs have an over-ride facility, so that the light can be switched on for up to 8 hours continuously.

Halogen floodlights, ranging from 150 to 500 or sometimes 1000W, are the most common security lights using PIRs, but other types of light fittings are also available. Low energy bulbs are best avoided, because some do not last long and may reduce the life of the PIR, and they don't reach full brightness immediately, which is desirable in a security light.

Floodlights can cause annoyance to neighbours, if they shine onto their property, especially through windows, so their sighting and adjustment should bear this in mind. They can usually be adjusted independently of the PIR to keep them pointing down away from other peoples' property. PIR lights should be wired in via a switched fused spur, so that they can be isolated for maintenance, such as changing a bulb.

Dusk to Dawn Lighting

Instead of a PIR, these lights usually have a built in photocell, which switches them on at dusk and they stay on all night until dawn. Because they are on for long periods, most use low energy bulbs. These do not give as powerful lighting as floodlights. Some low energy bulbs have a built in photcell, so they can be put into any fitting that is big enough to take them. If you use these, make sure the photocell is exposed to the light and not obscured by the light fitting, otherwise it will come on during the day.

Ordinary Light Fittings Switched Externally

These include floodlamps without PIRs, and any other form of lighting. There are various ways these can be switched to turn them into security lights.

1. Using an ordinary light switch to turn them on manually. May be useful for convenience light, but useless if you are not there to turn them on.

2. Using an external PIR. Stand alone PIRs can be used to switch on the light. There will have to be wiring going from light to PIR. This is useful if the light is best sited away from the detection area. Everything said above about PIRs applies here. External PIRs are often better than built in ones. Some have a 360degree detection area, although only a maximum of 180deg. is needed if it is mounted on a wall.

3. Using an external photocell.

4. Using a time switch. The easiest way is to use a plug-in timer. These are both cheap and easy to use. The light is fitted to mains plug, which plugs into the timer. This can be adjusted for the light to go on and off whatever the timer is set to. If the light is outside, the timer must either be inside, or in a waterproof socket box outside.

5. Using a random switching bulb holder. This is mainly used for inside use, and gives outsders the impression that some-one is in the house switching lights.

6. Using a remote key fob. The radio contolled floodlight is switched on remotely using a small key fob transmitter. This can be kept on a key ring and operated from a car, or from, say, a bedroom, to switch on an external floodlight.